7 days. 4 friends. 2170km. One RVWe start with a bit of background on our trip residents. Our road trip in May 2019 came about after my former partner Joe and I moved to Japan, and our friends Danny and Catherine wanted to visit. Back in the UK the four of us often went on adventures and road trips together, so it seemed fitting that we did something special to show them Japan. So we planned a trip we would never forget. Now, it’s important to note that Catherine and Danny very nearly didn’t make the trip at all, as during the planning phase of the trip, Catherine had accidentally bought Danny’s airline ticket with her surname. This caused a huge drawback to the plan, as anyone who tried to change any flight details knows its next to impossible to change the ticket details without incurring a huge cost. Their solution: Danny legally changed his name. So, the first tip for this blog, its easier and cheaper to legally change your name than to have the airline companies fix it. (And it’s ultimately the most hilarious thing ever). On their arrival, we gave them a whistle-stop tour of Tokyo. I am going to write this up in another blog post as we tried several custom made day tours with people and slowly refined it to an acute art. Harajuku, Temples, Shrines, Sushi, Fancy Mochi, Cutesy Japanese Photo Booths, Electric City, Shibuya Crossing. From the elegant, to the cute, to the crazy, we saw it all, setting us up for our fabulous week on the open road! Renting the RV – What you need to know.Our trip was planned for the end of April and coincided with Golden Week, one of Japan’s biggest holidays. This year was particularly special because of the abdication of the emperor and the start of the new reign during the holiday period. I realized we needed to book pretty far in advance as it was going to be busy. We used a company called ‘Japan RV Rental’ at their Narita branch. They were able to help us in English through the booking process and there were no hidden costs. The emailed us an inventory of everything that was included in the price in advance, which was incredibly helpful to know what to pack. We hired a ‘Type B’ camper that was just big enough for four adults. The camper comes with a chemical toilet but we just decided that we wouldn’t use it because no one wants to empty that! It also had a tank of water that we could refill, for washing plates and hands, and we were given as many blankets as we wanted! The woman that rented us the RV was wonderfully helpful and ensured we had everything we needed such as; plates, cutlery, pillows, sleeping bags, picnic table, chairs, and other useful items such as a travel book on Japan in English.
Before leaving for Japan, Danny and Catherine got their international driving license from the British Post Office to ensure they were able to drive abroad. Japan drives on the same side as the UK and most of the signs use the English alphabet. This meant it was an easy transition for everyone to master driving in Japan. We decided early on that the savings we made on toll roads meant we spent more on petrol and lost a lot of time on the country roads. But make sure if you decide the scenic route is for you to look out for dark green signposts indicating the toll roads. As each toll road varies in price it was difficult to keep track. The RV Company provided us with an ETC card, which allows you to drive straight through the tollgates without having to fiddle around with cash. We then paid the total at the end of the trip to the rental office, which we found very convenient.
After our bellies were full, off we went on our adventure. Through the Tokyo Metropolis, we drove towards the town of Fujiyoshida, in the shadow of Mt Fuji. Now, unfortunately, Mt. Fuji and I don’t get on. Every time I try and get close to Mt Fuji to bask in its glorious nature, it hides away. Although the day had started sunny, by the time we arrived in Fujiyoshida, a good 5-hour drive, the weather had flipped 180°. It was now intermittent heavy rain and complete cloud coverage. No Fuji. So, we arrive in the rain, but having travelled through beautiful mountains to get here, we still feel optimistic about our trip. We find the famous Chureito Pagoda and climbed (or more like raced to the top like small children) the 400 steps to the top, much to the resentment of my burning lungs. After letting out a bit of energy we turned around and gazed over the scenic cloudy view of the town. This shrine boasts a famous view of Fuji which is why we had picked it as our first stop. The red pagoda struck me as being quite amusingly small, as the photos I had seen made it look much larger. The pagoda normally has a perfect view of Fuji and is especially photogenic in the spring with the cherry blossoms. We did wait for a chance movement in the clouds, but all we saw were the city lights illuminate as the sun went down. Our day ended at our first Michi-no-Eki. Like everywhere in Japan, it had very clean facilities and I felt very safe to be there. Using the gas stove supplied we made up some rice and topped it with a few simple ingredients. After playing a couple of quick games, we prepared ourselves for a well-deserved first night’s sleep.
Along the way we stopped at a local shrine and hiking start point, Hokuto-shi- Hakushuchoshirasu. We made full use of our RV privileges to pull out the picnic table and chairs, hoist out the canopy because, well, it was raining still, and have a civilized lunch by the river. It was a beautiful spot and we explored the damp moss-covered shrine, with the eager eyes of our first-time-in-Japan friends. We crossed a suspension bridge, which made Catherine cry from instability and leapt across the stones of a river, all in our raincoats. We made our way back unknowing what was to await us… The RV would not start! We had accidentally left the headlights on and drained the battery. After pushing Joe down the hill, in an attempt to push start the RV, we started to face the fact we would have to pay a lot to get a mechanic to drive out to the middle of nowhere and rescue us. Just as we lost all hope, by sheer chance, a policeman doing his rounds came up the lonely lane and we were able to pull him over and ask for assistance. He went to get his jump leads and within the hour, and with the addition of several locals attempting to help us, we got the RV battery charged and started rolling again. It’s hard to believe how many people tried to help us in that lonely little car park by the lonely little shrine. We lost a fair amount of time, but we gained a lot of experience thanks to the kind hearts of Japanese strangers so eager to help us lost foreigners. They seemed in awe of the four of us and our borrowed travel guide to Japan. There was a lot of bowing and we parted ways. That was a near-miss for things that could have gone badly wrong and annoyingly expensive, but we learned our lesson and were constantly checking the battery from then on!
We drove through Nagoya Industrial Park for some heavy industrial night views. It was nearly midnight and the scene was very dystopian with its fire lit chimneys, metal tubes and built up factories behind large fences, and also biker gangs. “We’re going to die!” Screamed Catherine trying to roll up the window! Followed by “The window’s broken!” We have no idea how, but could not get it up, no matter which button we pressed. We pulled over for petrol, once the biker gang had gone, and the petrol attendant in some impressive, insanely expertise skill, got it working in one push of the button. Embarrassed by our lack of competence we drove off for the last time to find a Michi-no-Eki to stay the night. Day Three – Catherine is adopted!!!This was a day we timed wrong… it was probably the busiest day of the year to visit the Ise Grand Shrine, and on top of that is was raining cats and dogs from dawn to dusk. It was Golden week and the first day of the new Emperor. Everyone and their little fluffy dog had descended on Ise, one of the most sacred shrines in Japan. We got up early and made our way to Ise from a Michi-no-Eki we slept at fairly nearby. The first hint that we may have chosen a bad day to visit Ise was that the motorway slip roads to the town were closed, leading us to the park-and-ride instead. This involved standing in a long line in the rain, whilst I had flashbacks to getting hypothermia at Glastonbury 2007 from standing in a similarly long line. We had to choose between the inner shrine and the outer shrine, of which (after asking the lovely bus guide) we choose the inner shrine. The day, however rainy and crowded, was irreplaceable in my memory, and thankfully we didn’t catch hypothermia
The grounds had a typical minimalistic and rustic Japanese feel to them. At the Isuzugawa sacred river, we all choose something on our possession to bless in the river. Danny chose his glasses to help him see well on our trip. We visited the main shrine and the surrounding shrines, all masked in forest and nature. And once we were thoroughly and truly soaked through, we headed back to the RV. Another long journey was ahead of us so we took the toll roads, as our day had been rather long. We travelled through the city lights of Osaka, spotting the central district of part of Dontuburi through the skyscrapers. The raised roads wound like spaghetti around each other through these large metropolises. We stopped at a roadside station and enjoyed the wonders of Japanese vending machines that supplied us with hot food and ice cream. We crossed the Akashi-Kaikyo Bridge, one of the world’s longest and tallest suspension bridges. It is a colossal beast of a man-made construction, and amazing feeling to drive over this bridge that connects the mainland to the small island of Awaji, where we would park up and spend the night.
We did not have time to stop and wait to see them unfortunately as we were heading for the ferry port to take us to Naoshima Island. We stopped in Takamatsu to wait for the right time for the ferry, stretching our legs with a walk along the harbour. We went to the convenience store to get some snacks, because you can never have enough snacks on a road trip, not realizing how difficult it would be to manoeuvre the RV in such a small car park. We even had time to make a quick visit to a local shrine, before boarding the ferry. We basked in the May sun as we crossed the sea and it soaked up the Mediterranean vibes as we floated over to Naoshima - a place I long to visit once more! There are many islands along this stretch of the Seto Inland Sea, with Teshima and Naoshima being the two of the most popular destinations because of its art museums and scenic views. We went with our instincts and chose Naoshima and it was a very good choice! The island is tiny, and you can drive around it in less than 10 minutes. It has beaches, and hills, a small town and even smaller roads. We parked up by a caravan site with a shower! Hallelujah! It had been a few days since our last shower and we all seemed a little relieved we could finally wash our hair.
Our highlight of the entire trip happened that evening. The island has two Yayoi Kasama pumpkin sculptures, one yellow and one red. These large pumpkins have iconic dots all over and are taller than a person. We were parked near the yellow pumpkin, which had a huge queue by day, but by night was empty. After dinner, we wandered down for a spot of nighttime photography and partner acrobatics on the pier. Our solo circus and photography act was interrupted by a hilarious group of drunken Japanese guys, who asked us to take their picture with the pumpkin. They had clearly put a lot of thought into the pose they were to capture: attempting to pick up the pumpkin they shouted out (for the benefit of our foreign ears only) “Heavvvvvy”. It was great to see them having such a great night out and we hope they enjoy the video and photos we took for them as much as we love the memory of “Heavvvvvy.” Soon became the catchphrase of the trip and forever after! Day Five – Pear flavoured ice cream… |
We stopped for a stretch at a waterfall in the secluded and sunny mountains and later found a lovely café to stop for lunch. Kimama café in Okayama Prefecture is somewhere I really recommend but it was somewhere you would only find by chance, and very far from the beaten track. For us, it was a quick decision based on a lovely hand-painted road sign, which attracted us in. The café owner was very attentive to our groups' dietary needs, catering for both vegetarian and non-veggie meals. She customized what was on the menu, a huge courtesy in Japan. The café was quirky and had a small shop selling knick-knacks and curiosities. The small village it was in was engulfed by vibrant green mountains on all sides, full of new spring greens and fresh air. Had we not seen the sign, we would have never have known it was there and missed out on such a lovely place! |
We drove on to our next destination, Tottori. We arrived just before the golden hour, and with clear skies, we had a beautiful, breath-taking visit. We took the chair lift down from the park and ride, a super fun experience on its own, and walked the dunes of the beach. You would have thought it was Egypt with all that sand. The main dune was very hard to climb, with the slipping sand beneath our feet. However, getting to the top meant one thing. Seeing how far you could jump or run down fun without losing control and falling over. For the more faint-hearted sitting and watching the sunset over the waves from the ocean is also enjoyable. All the more enjoyable with friends. It was crazy to believe this sight was here in Japan, and probably the furthest point in our journey. I’m really glad we made it! We took the chair lift back up while the sunset was setting, and had the most delicious pear ice cream at the top. Danny had 2 of course! These particular pears are the local delicacy that is grown in the Tottori prefecture. As we were at the furthest point, we spent a few hours driving north to get a head start on our next day of adventures. |
From somewhere on the west coast we drove towards the cliffs of Tojinbo, a dramatic and rocky part of the Japanese coast. The hexagonal and pentagonal stone rods form pillars on the rugged coastline and is only one of three places you can see this geological formation in the world, and the only place in Japan. |
After lunch, we drove on to Kanazawa, our last major stop on our grand tour. Along the way, the snow-topped peaks of the Japanese Alps stood out vividly in the spring landscape. We would have to cross them later through miles upon miles of tunnels. We parked in town with the help of local wand wavers, our affectionate term for the mostly older generation of workers who help guide traffic around tourist areas or construction sites. The man who guided us in also gave us maps of the area, and a detailed description of anywhere we would want to go. As with many locals we met on our travels he was surprised to see four foreigners in an RV travelling around Japan and eager to practice his English skills with us. |
Our journey ends and we’re grateful to the most wonderful trip. I never would have thought being in a small compact environment would feel so much like family. We had seen so much of Japan, more than what should have been possible with our insane long driving across the astonishing archipelago. We would do it all again in a heartbeat, except we would take more days and drive a little less every day to see more local. We really did push ourselves to complete this trip, and every mile was worth it. |
July 2020
May 2020
March 2020
October 2019